Slot Car Setup Tips

The front tyres  should be resting on the surface of the block, and it should not be possible to  lift either front wheel off the surface without lifting the chassis. If it cannot, check for any moulding flash and remove it if necessary,  and apply a drop of oil lubrication. If the guide is too stiff it can cause  handling difficulties. For example the rear end no longer slides progressively  and predictably, and it suddenly steps out when the cornering force is  sufficient to overcome the friction. They last a long time but  they are stiff and tend to lift the front of the car high above the track,  raising the centre of gravity. I replace them with soft braids that help to keep  the front of the car lower. My current favourite is the ultra-thin braid from  Slot It, but sometimes I have to use the slightly thicker Pink Kar soft braid to  stay above the new ground clearance limit. Remove excess plastic due to the moulding process so it does not rub on the main shaft of the motor and check teeth on contrate.  Oil the axle bearings and the contrate. It’s no big deal if they move a little, in most cases they can be effectively glued with Super Glue. Check for any slop between the axle and bearings. Some of the slot car manufacturers have oversized bearings; these may need to be addressed to achieve a tighter fitting bearing. Not doing this could see the glue drying and the axle locked. In these cases you need to brace the motor and backend in order to prevent the crown gear moving away from the pinion when chassis twists under acceleration. Piano wire or a metal coat hanger are probably your best options. Simply bend the wire into a shape that runs from the top of rear axle mounts and across the front of the motor. Just smear some paste onto the gear, and run the car slowly, for about 5 to 10 minutes while still applying the paste to gears. To do this lightly sand or scrape with a hobby knife the outer areas of the body, where chassis touch. Also lightly sand the outer chassis to where they meet the body. Now find a drill bit that is one size larger than the original hole ( usually 3mm ) in the chassis where you removed the screws from and hand drill the holes to make them larger. Get yourself some WD40 and a clean rag. Now spray the WD40 onto the rag and wipe the braids clean. As you will see that by doing this your car will achieve a much better contact. Remove the body and visually inspect the chassis on a regular basis. Make certain the pickup shoes are clean and that they float freely. Check the wheel hubs and make sure they are not rubbing on the chassis. Rotate the tires and make sure the axles are not bent. A clean slot car will always perform better and last longer. A small drop at each of the chassis axle bearings, both front and back is all you'll need to keep the axles spinning freely. Get to know the handling characteristics of a single chassis, and tweak it to your liking. This is particularly true with box stock slot cars. No two are exactly alike. If you have several cars to select from find one that is quick right out of the box and use it exclusively. Lexan™ body shell. Light weight vacuum formed body shells greatly reduce a slot car's overall weight. General Electric Corporation. It resists breaking and tearing and is very strong, while being light and highly flexible. You must use paint specially formulated for this material though. Normal model enamel will simply not adhere to it. Pactra makes a special paint that is ideal for painting this type of plastic.A vacuum formed body can easily be painted by hand or with an artist's airbrush. Slot car racers can do the same thing by purchasing a dynamically balanced motor armature, stronger motor magnets and silver or gold plated electrical motor components. Oil makes every moving part work with less friction, less heat, and makes your slot car faster. Oil should also be applied to axles where they go through axle bearings or bushings. Don’t assume that brand new slot cars are adequately oiled. We saved a brand new Fly Viper one night when it slowed down severely and got so hot you could not touch the bottom. You might also consider using grease instead of oil on the gears because of the extra pressure these parts typically go through. A dab of gear grease on this post can help your car navigate those tricky corners a little smoother. Most makes of slot cars feature a "push in" style of guide pin which can be eased out of it's hole for lubrication. The Fly, Ninco, and some others use wires which are connected to the guide blade. Go slowly and carefully and the blade can be removed from the chassis without disconnecting these wires. You need to determine that the tires are "true", especially the rear tires where power is applied. Out of "true" tires can cause the car to "hop" or handle poorly. Rubber tires are soft and very flexible so they can bunch up on one side of the wheel and cause this imbalance. Remove the body from the car and, using your thumbs and fingers, roll and push the rubber tire until it feels evenly round. Your objective is to lower the front end so the front wheels properly rotate. Non magnet cars will tail-slide more easily and strong magnet cars will act more erratic than ever. To ensure fair competition and the best possible performance we suggest a quick vacuum job of the track. In most cases this will remove any room dust and more importantly any metallic braid or tire debris (rubber, silicone, etc.).Clean track is also critical to the life of slot car racing motors. Dust and metallic particles from pick-up braids can impede the flow of cooling air around the motors and clog up bushings and armatures. These same elements can collect on lubricated parts of the chassis. A damp cloth can also be used but we don't recommend it because lint can be more destructive than dust. If a damp cloth is your only option, be careful not to litter the track with lint from your cloth.

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