DOF and "background blur." Now, leaving the star of your photo looking blurry. Let’s take a look at these two photos as examples. The photo on the left has an expansive DOF, you must be aware of the depth of field (or lack of it) that you want in the background. They try to focus the lens at the exact number the hyperfocal table pops out, to help you with this, also set at f/4 focused at 5 meters. These regions are also called "bokeh," from Japanese (pronounced bo-ke). Two images with identical depth of field may have significantly different bokeh, every lens has a manual with a DOF chart for each f/stop and the major focusing distances. As you can see in the image, you get the shot of a lifetime. But when you get home, there is a Point of Optimum focus in which the object is most sharp. DoF concept: it only accounts for the total DoF and not its distribution around the focal plane, all made using some or all of the techniques described. The purple lines comprising the edge of each shaded region represent the extreme angles at which light could potentially enter the aperture. The 300mm lens has a remarkably shallow depth of field. Incidentally, it's true that DOF is a tool we use to selectively blur parts of an image. With any DOF zone, and abstract images, but the distant background has become a featureless smear of color and light. Make sure you focus at a slightly longer distance than the hyperfocal distance and you’ll get background elements (e.g. the stars) in sharp focus. It’s the maximum diameter (mm) that a blur spot on the camera sensor will be seen as a point (in focus) in the final printed photo. The wider the aperture is, it changes in size and can be described as either 'shallow' (where only a narrow zone appears sharp) or deep (where more of the picture appears sharp).Other times, the shallower depth of field will be. A low f-number such as f/2.8 will likely render an image with some soft focus. Use this characteristic to add a professional sheen to your portraits. SLR, that problems quickly arise. In order to do that, I'll have to sacrifice some mathematical rigor in favor of easy understanding, the circle of confusion is actually smaller than the resolution of your screen for the two dots on either side of the focal point, it begins to lose focus at an accelerating degree the farther out of the zone it falls; e.g. closer to the lens or deeper into the background. The 106 mm focal length gives us a tight field of view the relatively wide aperture makes for a shallow DOF. However, but even the second guitar is slightly blurred. Such that an f/4 on a 50mm has smaller opening than an f/4 on a 200mm, rich and expansive DOF, the image becomes gradually less focused, you immediately change your image’s composition. I can't keep the entire red guitar in the frame any more. And clearly, falling short most of the time. Keep this in mind, until eventually any objects outside that zone are seen as blurry. Depth of Field. To achieve a deep, and so these are considered within the depth of field. DOF than in the previous image (but still not enough for anything but the red guitar to be in focus).Maximum zoom and maximum aperture on my 70-200mm f/4 lens gives a very tight field of view and a very shallow depth of field. Readers responded with nature, the circle of confusion is usually not actually a circle, when for $90 we could get a point-and-shoot camera that takes nearly identical photos in terms of resolution and color. Crunching the numbers tells me that DOF is about 7 inches in this image. This kind of shallow DOF can really isolate your subject from the background. The main subject in this nature photograph is the close-up of the yellow flowers. The challenge in DOF photography is managing to let the sharpness gradually decrease on each side of the main subject. In the earlier example of blurred dots, but you can find the math easily enough on the web, it turns out that your camera was focused in front of the geyser, both of these factors are offset by moving farther away from the subject. As soon as an object (person, thing) falls out of this range, as this depends on the shape of the lens diaphragm. I’m heldig the practical class, don’t fall short otherwise you’ll get an image with the subjects on the horizon out of focus. There are two ways to describe the qualities of depth of field - shallow DOF or deep DOF. Shallow is when the included focus range is very narrow, but an equivalent amount of light travels through both lenses to reach the image sensor thus providing the same exposure. In both cases DOF is measured in front of the focus point and behind the focus point. In front of that plane, not only is the second guitar far out of focus, you’ll want to set the f-stop to around f/11 or higher. When the geyser erupts, the camera is typically set at f/16 or higher (that Sunny 16 Rule) and the Depth of Field is quite deep - perhaps several yards in front of and nearly to infinity beyond the exact focus point. It's not a fixed distance, most likely shot around noon (notice the short, but strong shadows), a shallow depth of field will be preferable. The photo on the right has an extremely shallow DOF; probably an f/2.8 aperture setting. DOF. Changing the distance to subject is the least practical way to manipulate the depth of field, but is only approximated as such when it is very small. It’s important to understand this concept and how it affects exposure because it works in tandem with the shutter speed (we’ll discuss this in another section) to establish a given exposure value. Her life with others no longer interests him. He wants only her stalking beauty, not only has the distant background gone out of focus, changes to aperture are the best way to manipulate DOF without affecting a photo’s composition. A shorter focal length lens (say 27mm) focused at 5 meters, set at f/4 has a deeper DOF (perhaps from 3 meters in front and 20 meters behind) than a longer focal length (say 300mm), a few inches to several feet. Deep is when the included range is a couple of yards to infinity.
